Monday, September 27, 2004
Texting and recent posts
Hi. To clarify the note on the right hand top part of this page: if you want to be in touch with us quickly-ish, you can text Heather on her usual mobile phone-number for about 40p (Mark got his SIM nicked in Bangkok, unfortunately). I don't have it on all the time, and I might not always reply (lots of 40p's can add up!) - but they should mostly get through to us.
Why would you do such a thing?!
- To see friends and family and significant places that we won't otherwise see, much more cheaply than on lots of short holidays
- For all four of us to get a better picture of the world
- To get a break from the pressures of school, work, etc., and remember the joy of learning and experiencing new things and challenges that sometimes gets drained out of us by all that
- To get to spend lots of time together at a stage when many young people and parents seem to get pulled apart
- To learn about world religions, global politics, a wide range of natural habitats, and what shops, streetstalls and markets are like in different countries
- To spend time in places where racism plays out differently than it does in the UK, to see what that's like for us all
- To get the chance to really rest after working too hard for a while
- To see rainforest, swim with dolphins, make new friends, see how old human cultures are, see how fast-changing they can be ...
- To have time to regularly play guitar, juggle pois, talk about the way the world works, learn new things for the fun of them, be physically active, write this blog ...
- To spend money we've earned on something we really want: this has been a great motivator to save, to be in charge of and to earn money - all things we've wanted to get better at
A luxury hotel and more food ...
We've just been away for the weekend to a very posh hotel outside of Beijing. It is where the Prime Minister, other ministers and their minions go to relax at weekends. We went to visit the Great Wall (which really is a great wall!). We went up to it by cable car and came down a long slide/toboggan - really good fun.
We were then taken by our hosts to eat at a very delicious restaurant where they had amazing barbequed fish (Melissa's favourite food so far) then back to the hotel to swim, sauna and eat yet more food. We had foot massages, facials (me and Hong Wei), the men and kids played games, skittles, shooting, video games and others. I even had my hair dyed - it's now an interesting shade of dark greeny brown!!!
So much luxury - we really haven't had chance to miss any home comforts yet - except for a bath. The coffee's not great (except in Starbucks) but we can buy cadburys and galaxy ("dove") chocolate everywhere - and we do! Last time I came here there was none of that - I had a complete break from those particular addictions. The food is wonderful and awful at the same time - some delicious food - fresh, varied and lovely, there seems to be no end to the variety of ways that tofu can be served (some nice and some not) and lots of lovely veggies (thank goodness) and loads of different fish dishes. But there is so much else - we went up a little street today and saw kebabs of many things including snake, scorpian (live), beetle, hearts, squid etc - I felt sick and had to come away - Mark bravely bought a chicken kebab which was delicious apparently - even the little egg balls that I liked the look of had squid inside!
I find that I am very squeamish and a great dissapointment to our hosts who would like to show us all of the vast variety of foods that this country has to offer - Rosa is even worse and lives mostly on egg fried rice! Thank goodness we have Mark with us who will at least try most things (even cow stomach and sea cucumber) and Melissa is being very game about trying new things and has eaten a quantity of new vegetables.
Missing friends and family, especially when we see something that I know some of you would like or that I would like to share with you. Hope you are all missing us too - but not too much - just enough to make some of you want to come and join us somewhere on the route.
- HeatherFriday, September 24, 2004
A little news
Hi all! We're still in Beijing, still having email/web access trouble, still having a good time.
Yesterday was a good day for everyone, I think. We spent the day before rushing around this huge hot city in taxis, failing to find an open internet cafe that would offer better facilities than the grotty Internet Bar round the corner (over-18s only). I've been able to download our photos into HW & YJ's PC, and burn them on to a CD, so we don't need computers that our cameras will talk to, but we do need ones with CD drives if we're to load any photos. Mostly, we can't even get into gmail here, and I'm posting via email to the blog (you can try my old bigfoot address if you want to get in touch soon, or text Heather or me ...).
So yesterday we stayed close to home. The Yong He Tibetan Bhuddist Temple is local, colourful (photos to come!), calming, huge and smells strongly of the enormous amounts of sandalwood incense burned. We found shade and wrote postcards, then headed off to a pretty but not-delicious veggie restaurant nearby. This took us into hutongs for the first time (again, photos to come!) - people living very close to each other, hanging out with each other, adults and children on the street: a bit like George Street only more picturesque.
We spent the later afternoon in the paying entry bit (20p each) of the park over the road from the hotel. Parks in China are great. I want to live here when I'm old: people of all ages, but older ones particularly, hang around singing, playing instruments, flying kites, watching schools of carp, chatting and exercising. We've only seen one guy so far doing something we are sure was Tai Chi, but we've seen all sorts of other things, from swordplay to badminton, and from gentle stretches on the state-provided outdoor gym (looks pretty much like a kids playground in the UK, but with bigger equipment, and no grafitti) to sweaty sit-ups on the parallel bars. The one thing you can't do is walk on the grass - but the hard surfaces include ones designed for massaging your feet as you walk on them!
Then another huge, delicious meal with HW and YJ in another local restaurant, this one with NE China specialities (yam noodles, corn pancakes, etc) - Melissa ate aubergines, green and red peppers and big mild chillies with pleasure(!), though both girls liked the big chunky potato chips best (but didn't use the condensed milk dip provided ...). After, we went back to the streetside bit of the local park and played badminton and pois for an hour or two.
Tonight we're off to the outskirts of the metropolitan area, and what may be a luxury hotel by the sound of it - we're visiting the Wall and the place where H and Lani came to the UN conference until Sunday night. Next week we're going to Yujin's home town in rural Shang Dong province - travelling there on Thursday or Friday and staying a week - definitely no internet then! Then back in Beijing, or we may try and get out of the city (if only to find a way to stop HW & YJ paying for everything!) for a bit before we leave for India on Oct 13th.
love to all of you from all of us:
- MarkStaying in Beijing
Here, as promised are photos of the Lama temple, and of a hutong shop:
Melissa is a fantastic hard bargainer - in this picture she's about to get the price she originally named (about a fifth of the asking price):
The park over the road is a great place for a stroll or some exercise in the day:
In the evenings we hang out in the street park, playing badminton or swinging pois:
Wednesday, September 22, 2004
Interruption in Normal Service
Hi all - sorry that we've not been updating very much recently: and I expect the posts that have got through may be looking a little wierd. We're being very well looked after indeed by Hongwei and Yujin in Beijing - but we are not near any good internet cafes, so everything is very slow, and our connections to gmail and blogger (who run our blog) are very patchy.
We are all well, and particularly well fed, and we'll get more up here as soon as we can.
- love HMRMTuesday, September 21, 2004
More Shanghai Photos
Shanghai introduced us to the range of Chinese transport systems:
It also gave us a chance to rest, start on-the-road blogging, look out the window at a new city, and just be tourists
Monday, September 20, 2004
The train to Beijing
The shiny new Z2 left Shanghai train station at 19:21 on it's 1450km, 12 hr journey to Beijing, with us happily settling in to our soft sleeper compartment:
We liked it: no longer in a shared dormitory; enough good food for two for about GBP1.50; all the hot water we could drink; and once the sun rose in the morning (it's getting light about 6am) great views of the flat, huge, Chinese countryside. We saw fields of corn, schoolchildren cycling in blue and white tracksuit uniforms, small flocks of sheep, a donkey, a quarry, lots and lots of sunflowers, and villages and towns all of whose houses faced the same way.
Beijing!
How lovely to be met by friendly faces at the station! Hongwei and Yujin brought us home to their neighbourhood near Yong He Temple. Our hotel occupies the bottom floors of a building shared by the Ministry of Labour and Social Security, for whom Yujin now works as director general (no less!) of their Centre for International Exchanges, is two minutes walk from our hosts' flat, and is right next door to the huge new building the Ministry will be moving into when it is completed next year.
Breakfast in a cafe round the corner: fried doughsticks (like savoury churros) with sweetened soya-milk, egg pancakes, pork chop and a bowl of soupy noodles. Then a quick visit to Yujin's office (he can't get at this website on the internet either) and off with Hongwei to our first real tourist must-sees of the whole trip - Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden Palace: finest collection of ancient buildings in all China. See the beautiful clay brick roofscape! Zoom in on the welcoming Starbucks!
Tried and failed to imagine the place when it was truly forbidden to non-members of the imperial court (for 500 years to 1911), the emperor's concubines spent their whole lives here, and latte was completely unavailable. The garden at the back was a relaxing place to end our visit and had more atmosphere, I thought:
Then home (chauffered by the Ministry!) to the hotel, off to McDonald's for a snack (sad but true), and then I escaped for a welcome snooze while Hongwei, Heather and the girls shopped for a couple of hours.
A good evening with friends
Yujin had to dine with the Minister, so we ate with Hongwei in a small room to ourselves at the restaurant underneath our bedrooms - so much delicious food! A Sichuan dish that was mostly chillies, from which chilles and peanuts were excavated to eat; asparagus with some bulb that Hongwei couldn't translate into English; a cold dish of wood-ear mushrooms with cucumber in a gorgeous garlic, ginger, sesame and chilli sauce; two kinds of fish, one very spicy; tofu; cold chicken; and two kinds of rice.
Later, Heather and I strolled and chatted with Yujin (dinner over) and Hongwei in the neighbouring park - the girls safely tucked up in their room. Groups of neighbours were playing music and dancing; couples cuddled; other people sat and watched goldfish in the pond; the occasional young policeman quietly available to stop any bad behaviour. A pleasantly cool evening, the wind making the weeping willows even more beautiful. The life of an ordinary Chinese director general seems very bearable on first inspection!
- MarkSunday, September 19, 2004
leaving Shanghai
Leaving Shanghai today, quite relieved as although its been an easy transition from home the full on commercialism was something that we (adults) were trying to get away from. The tempatations to spend a lot of time and money on the 'western' luxuries (such as Starbucks) is very strong.
Finally adjusting to the time zone, woke up this morning and didn't feel like it was the middle of the night and was hungary for the first time for breakfast, and last night we walked a really long way and I felt energetic - hooray!
Met some friendly Koreans in the Youth Hostel and were able to give away one of our business cards and some little gifts, Mark is going to put a photo up of them in due course. We aren't able to see the weblog at all from here, so I don't know what it looks like now - hope it looks nice
- HeatherLast night in Shanghai ...
Shanghai's neon spectacular certainly rivals Times Square. We walked through the blare of colour and the crowds on a busy Saturday night to try to catch the acrobats - who were having the night off.
On the way we fell in with a South African 'hostess' for the British Jaguar F1 team, here to find English food and an Irish pub ready for the driver's arrival for next week's race - so we learned of the Jag's departure from Coventry from this unlikely source. Crossing our fingers that the knock-on effects won't cost any of our friends their jobs.
No acrobats, but an interesting stroll past all kinds of provision
for wealthy people, followed by the week's most expensive meal
(pizza). We strolled down this alley:
- but the internet cafe we
were looking for turned out to be a bar for over-18s, so we had to
content ourselves with leafing through the latest DVD's available for
80p each - Princess Diaries 2, I Robot, Ocean's Twelve: and lots of
art-house and world cinema - get your orders in now for our visit to
Beijing's DVD markets ...!
Saturday, September 18, 2004
A few photographs
Friday, September 17, 2004
Shanah tovah!
Thursday, September 16, 2004
Wednesday, September 15, 2004
we're in shanghai!
Shanghai some more ...
Tuesday, September 14, 2004
greetings from Shanghai
Shanghai - what time is it???
Best thing so far
- Melissa: Going to sleep, and the market round the corner before that: gameboy games for four pounds!
- Rosa: Sleeeeeping
- Heather: Being brave enough to go into a proper Chinese cafe where nobody spoke English, and managing to order things we could eat
- Mark: Showering, cleaning my teeth, playing my guitar a bit (but see below) ...
Worst thing so far
- Melissa: Smelly street near our youth hostel. Food's been a bit horrible.
- Rosa: Having to wake up again
- Heather: Jet lag - and not being able to sleep on the plane ...
- Mark: My guitar's broken already! :-( It must have got whacked and the soundboard is coming away from the wall over about 15 cm
Next on the list
- Melissa: Go round some more shops
- Rosa: Find an internet cafe that is faster than this one!
- Heather: I'm hungry now
- Mark: Find a website about fixing your own guitar with gaffer tape and superglue
Sunday, September 12, 2004
We're off in the morning!
- Rosa: 10.2 kg backpack, 2.2 kg daypack
- Melissa: 10.6 kg backpack, 2.4 kg daypack
- Mark: 11.8 kg backpack, 3.2 kg daypack, 6.2 kg guitar
- Heather: 11.2 kg backpack, 1.6 kg daypack (with water still to be added)
Thursday, September 09, 2004
Getting ready before we go ...
Culinary World Tour: Report #1
Interesting Facts #93: Big Cities
Sunday, September 05, 2004
We will not be with you for much longer
Saturday, August 21, 2004
"Peters" map of our route
Click the map above, or click here, to supersize it!
- [Sept]
Shanghai , overland toBeijing , to visit with Hong Wei & Yu Jin - [Oct-Nov]
Mumbai , overland toKerala & back, taking inBangalore , etc. - [Dec-Jan]
Nairobi , thenKisumu and elsewhere in Kenya with Naomy - [Feb-Mar] Thailand:
Bangkok ,the South , andChiang Mai - [April]
Australia (Teresa),New Zealand (Levitt-Campbells), and theUSA (Rachael) - [May] Mexico, including
Mexico City ,Oaxaca , andSan Luis Potosi - [June]
Jamaica ,Cuba , and then home!
Wednesday, August 18, 2004
Who would do such a thing!?
- One Year Off: Leaving It All Behind for a Round-the-World Journey with Our Children by David Cohen (the classic Westerner's "consume-the-world" tour, and our model of what we don't want to do this year. Our favourite bit was finding out they had a nanny with them when they remembered to mention her in passing after travelling for several months ...)
- 12,000 Miles in the Nick of Time: A Family Tale by Mark Jacobson (2003) (we liked this crew a lot better)
- The Seven Year Hitch: A Family Odyssey by David R Grant (Great book - but we decided against trying to match this Scottish family's seven years circumnavigation in a horse-drawn caravan ...)
- Bunnell Family Around the World 1998
- Hathaway Family World Tour 1999
- Mason-Slaughter Family "Worldhop.com Journal" 97-98
- Rawlins Family 2001-02
- Hughes Family Big Trip 2000-01
- Marc Brosius' very handy Round-The-World Travel Guide
- and Edward Hasbrouck's Practical Nomad book and website
Monday, August 16, 2004
Four weeks to go ...
Thursday, August 05, 2004
Getting close!
Testing a new way to put pictures on here ...
Monday, August 02, 2004
How to get in touch with us on the road
We'd love to hear from you! Here's how to comment on this blog, email us, or leave voice-mail (or read about telephoning us cheaply):
Comment on this blog
- Click on the word "comment" or "comments" underneath any post
- Scroll down past all the comments other people have already left (!)
- At the bottom of the page, click "Post a Comment"
- Sign in, or click "post anonymously" (below the big Sign-In button)
- Write your warm and appreciative message
- Click the big blue Publish Your Comment button once only
- It may take a couple of minutes before the comment's accepted
Email us at our on-the-road addresses
This blog shouldn't show up on public search engines, but just in case, we're not going to put our email addresses here (fear of spam!). So if you can't remember what they are, just mail us at (nobody but us will see it) telling us who you are, and we'll remind you of our personal addresses.
Leave us a voice-mail
(You have to call a US number: for ideas on doing this cheaply click here)
- Call 00 1 661-716-2564 (Listen very carefully to the Voice Prompts)
- Enter 0123456789 as the "Primary Number"
- Enter 2468 as the PIN, press #
- Record your message (up to 5 minutes long), Press #
- Press 1 to post, 2 to review, 3 to re-record.
Then we can look at the voicemail you left us on the internet, and pick up your message! Be in touch soon - we're going to miss you!
Sunday, August 01, 2004
How to call us cheaply
We'll be staying with friends some time: and we might have access to a mobile phone in, say, Kenya. If you want to call, get in touch and we can email you phone numbers when we have them.
From the UK, you can call foreign lands cheaply from a home phone, or a mobile phone and have the (discounted) cost added to your bill. Or you can buy a card with credit on that you use up as you call us in Cambodia, China or California. It's probably worth looking at all three and picking the cheapest for the appropriate country.
From anywhere with a broadband connection, it's cheapest to skype us: that's calling over the internet - you need a headset, but then it's free.
Look forward to hearing from you soon!