First days in Varkala

The train stops for only two minutes at Varkala station, and we only just got everything out in time, but we struck lucky with the hotel that the taxi driver chose for us.

The SB Regency is a fine place to stay: no AC, but sea breezes and ceiling fans do the trick well enough:

 

 

 

We liked it here, but the girls wanted to be more in the centre of things, so we bid it farewell.

 

Our new place was a short walk away, along the beach and up to the top of the cliffs.

 

If you rest your mouse on a picture for a few seconds, an informative title should pop up - but you knew that, right?

- Mark

"Only ... 44 hours to Varkala ..."

[country music fades out ...] Our 44 hour trip to Varkala was the product of bad advice from Mr Dodgy Travel Agent (highly recommended by our boring but very friendly guide from the Jain temple excursion) - we should have taken a much faster train. We also gave Mr Dodgy Travel Agent around a thousand GB pounds in exchange for return air tickets to Kenya, supposedly to be provided on the Monday morning we were leaving Mumbai. Of course, no tickets were available Monday morning, and none could be provided for a further week at the price originally quoted, apparently - though if we could manage another 200 quid he'd see what he could do, and otherwise he'd be very happy to hold onto our cash and give us the tickets when we arrived in Mumbai in early Dec, two or three days before our flight ...

Money back? If we were so distrustful as that it was our loss and he'd be happy to give us our money back, minus 25 percent cancellation charge - a 250 quid fee for not booking us any tickets! I quailed, felt stupid, and thought it was my just desserts for being dumb enough to trust the guy. Heather, however, has learned many things in representing Foleshill ward, and sitting tight while this guy ranted and the percentage came down and down seems to be one of them. If we'd waited a little longer, I think we'd have got the lot back, but in the end we settled for losing 2.5 percent (twenty quid) - we had a train to catch! The friendly and reliable Mr Singh at our hotel (Hotel Godwin in Colaba, it's in the guidebooks), who easily organised IATA-covered tickets for us within the remaining hour we had left, was quite surprised that we'd got any of it back, I think.

With experiences like this, I looked haggard: before I was helped by Melissa and Rosa's Beauty Parlour ...

 

Back to the train journey ...

So, we were on the wrong train, but it was a great journey. Second class AC 2-tier is comfortable enough, and the food, company and views were great.

 

 

The train passed mountains, villages, little stations with friendly people on them; often stopping, never hurtling, usually moving along at a reasonable rate. The countryside was very different from North-East China - maybe partly because we were heading further south - with none of the ordered allotment feel to it that we'd seen in the People's Republic, and lots of space with no people in it (which we'd very rarely seen in China).

 

 

 

 

 

- Mark

Finally relaxing ...

Well I think we are all finally relaxing after 5 days in this place. Its a real slice of unreality - a proper holiday. Our pace has slowed down and we are not doing much - a good thing I think. We had a chat yesterday about the things we may do and started to plan the next six weeks a little. We are planning to have a six day excursion, which includes a night on a house boat cruising the back waters, traveling through a natural wildlife area - hopefully to see wild elephants and other animals, a visit to a spice farm and a tea plantation, a night in a hill station (Munnar) and ending up in Cochin. I think we will probably stay here for another week before we go off and do that.

Sati is joining us on the 24th November in Goa (we're so excited!) so we will have a couple of weeks before that to explore some of Karnataka - maybe around Mysore/Bangalore area - we want to be there for Divali as they don't celebrate it much down here apparently

Life here is very simple, we get up and eat - me and Mark have fresh fruit salad (papaya, mango, pineapple, banana, coconut), fresh fruit juice, mint tea and the girls egg and toast and mango juice. Then we may go down to the beach to play in the waves, then head back to our rooms for when it gets really hot, maybe read a little, write, play the guitar etc, then lunch (rice and dhal, or chicken and chappattis)followed by siesta. Mark and me usually still sleeping when the girls make their first visit of the day to the internet cafe to msn their friends - we have finally given into their demands for MSN to help them keep in touch with their friends. Then it's time to retire to a restaurant for our evening meal, perhaps vegetable curry and fish, after that we all visit the internet cafe and stroll around and then bed! We are trying to figure out how to have time to fit in the cookery class, massage class and massages and elephant ride trips that we want to have before we leave here - but as you can see, where will we find the time!

We have found a great cafe - called the 'Funky Art Cafe' - great people and fantastic food. The guys who run it are really friendly and good company - they are organising our trip for us, and we also met a Mexican and Spanish couple there last night who we had a good chat with. We are beginning to talk to people, met an English guy teaching in Trivandrum and that was nice. We have also made friends with one of the girls who sells stuff along here, bought some clothes from her brother's shop and then we met her selling the next day - we sat chatting with her for some time, the girls bought ankle chains and I bought sarongs. As we walked back to our hotel with her, a policeman came along and took her away - she came back in tears and he had confiscated most of her stock, she got it back later (for a 'fine'). She ate with us last night and listened delightedly to "Kushi Kubhi Kushi Khum" on the ipod ( the soundtrack of a Bollywood movie that we love and she does too). It was interesting listening to Melissa making friends with her (which she is very good at) most of the 'normal' questions that she asks people to make friends didn't work - what music do you like? Do you have a game boy? What TV programs/bands/brands etc do you like. Her name is Sosa and she is 10 years old - Mark will put a photo of her on here when we get a chance - she goes to school in Karnataka - where her family lives - for eight months and then comes here to work in her brother's shop.

There are lots of very relaxed and friendly dogs around here, loads of puppies, so eventually Mark has had to relax his 'no touch' rules as me and Rosa simply couldn't comply - he even stroked a tiny puppy himself yesterday. They get treated very well and my observation has been that the Indians (at least around here) have a very live and let live attitude to animals in general. I'm desperate to get hold of a bird book as their are so many interesting birds to see. It's strange being by the sea and there are no seagulls at all or anything we recognise as sea birds, but there are these enormous and beautiful sea eagles wheeling around everywhere, with their white heads and red backs. I have also seen a kingfisher, a hummingbird, chipmunks, lizards and massive bats (look just like the batman symbol!)

Must go now as I've left the others sleeping to come and do this and now breakfast is calling. Hopefully Mark will be able to get some photos up on here soon so that you can see some of what we are gushing on about! Speak soon

- Heather

guess what I have seen

today I have seen dolphins in the sea that I have swam in. It's great, they are well fun to watch. Missing every one loads

- melissa

A rare post from Roza

Hi everyone! We're all blogging now, so sorry if it's a bit repetitive, but dad said I should make an appearance.

So now I'll tell you about the place: we're staying in a nice hotel with a nice balcony wih a swinging chair-thing - but it sounds like we'll be moving soon because it's not as cheap as other ones of the same standard around here. We've just been sitting on the beach and watching the dolphins - AMAZING! Truly!

luv yall

- Roza xxx

Have I died and gone to heaven?

We arrived here after an amazingly ok 44 hour train journey. We stopped at lots of stations and watched the changing scenery, I was getting more and more excited and was in love with Kerala immediately.

The taxi driver took us to a hotel to look at, we were sure that it was going to be well above our price range as it had an amazing sea view and was peaceful and well just idyllic really, but we got two double rooms and one of them with a large balcony with a table and hammock chair outside for below our budgetted price (about 16 pounds a night).

After having showers and tea and toast we walked down the little cliff path to the sea and had a swim in warm clashing sea (and yes it is a bit dangerous with a fierce undercurrent but there are life guards where we swim and we keep well in our depth - it calms down in a few weeks apparently) - it was exciting and refreshing. Settled back with fresh coconut and pineapple only to spot a whole large pod of dolphins frolicking in the waves just a little way out! Couldn't believe my eyes, didn't even know there were any dolphins here. The life gurds say that they play there most days. There are some amzing birds as well and I would love to get a bird book - some huge red winged eagle type birds. Also massive butterflies and a lizard in our bathroom!

People seem really friendly, selling lots but not hasselly at all, there are some fantastic massages to be had and some great looking eating places to try out, and I've already bought some new clothes! No beggars or really desperate looking people here (well not that we've seen yet) - perhaps a result of the long history of Communism in the State

I think I'm going to like it here!

- Heather

On the beach!

We arrived in Varkala, Kerala after 44 hours on the train from Mumbai about five hours ago, found a nice room with a balcony, found the beach, cooled off, and I've been dosing under a big umbrella. Just got woken up a while ago by Heather and Melissa returning from a short expedition with cut-up fresh pineapple, green coconut milk, crisps and cold water: exactly what the doctor ordered. As we sat and ate and looked at the sea, a whole pod of dolphins started playing around for our delight - this is not going to be a hard week or two, I think. And the internet cafe is 45 seconds from the beach, too, so maybe we can catch up with some more photos and stories and reply to a few more emails!

- Mark

Ramadan Mubarak

... and a Happy Navratri, too, as the Gujurat government is wishing Muslims this year. We're sweaty (when we're not in a restaurant/shop/internet cafe/hotel with AC) but happy, and I think all looking forward to escaping Mumbai for Kerala.

We've done a lot in the last few days, been on a tour of Mumbai, bought tickets to Kenya (we hope! money has changed hands anyway!), bought more clothes and the girls have set up a beauty parlour just for us. We can have foot and head massages, facials, manicures and pedicures - all at a price of course!

I have managed to sleep last night but still woke up early raring to go and had to wait two and a half hours before the others were ready, can't wait 'til we are at the beach when I can just go for a walk and leave them to it. Can't remember when I last just felt like jumping out of bed in the morning - this IS what I came away for, to regain a sense of excitement and joy in life.

I bought a nice salwar kameez today (which I have on) and Melissa got a shop to empty its contents out for her before deciding she didn't like any of them! Rosa has finally bought some clothes - rather than just wearing the new clothes that I bought ...

I am having some qualms about the cheapness of the clothes and my bargaining has got softer today as a result. Up 'til now I haven't paid more than 80 rupees (about 1 pound)for any item of clothing bought on the street, but then I looked at a top and thought about the people growing and cutting the cotton, the people spinning, weaving, dying, cutting, sewing and embroidering the cloth and I thought how can I justify haggling hard to get the piece for such a low price. God, capitalism stinks! It's really hard to think about what the morals of it all are, and what an individual 'should' do. The same dilemmas come up around the beggars and hawkers. We sit in a nice air-conditioned coffee shop, drinking our expensive coffee(well actually really cheap to us - less that 50p for a nice latte!) and then we come out and refuse to give even a penny to the poor people outside. There are some beautiful kids around and I just want to cry at the lives that they are doomed to. I have given little bits of food to a couple of children - nuts and honey and plan to keep some in my bag for the regulars around here.

It was really interesting yesterday as we toured Mumbai in a car and drove past large slum areas, often slowly due to the traffic, and I really got to look at the people and (at the risk of sounding contradictory, hypocritical or naive) I was struck by how ordinary their lives looked. They were chatting, laughing, playing, lying around, working hard, frowning, smiling, looking happy and sad just like me. I am so glad that I don't have to live in such squalid conditions and that I get to live a longer and healthier life and don't have to physically break my body to keep my children fed and sheltered - but am I happier? Probably than many, probably not than many. The poor in China definitely look healthier but I'm not in a position to say whether or not they are happier - and what does that mean anyway. I know I'm getting all philosophical but, hey, I'm in India the land of ancient philosophy, mystery and contradictions - if you don't start questioning life here - where else? I'd probably better stop now though all the same.

We're off to Kerala tomorrow - hooray! Mumbai is fab but the beach will be very welcome.

It's strange not to be fasting this year over Ramadan, being in India and all but glad as the heat would make not drinking hard - thinking of all of you that are though, enjoy it and say a prayer for me.

- Heather

Two Temples

The Jain Temple is written up as not very impressive in our guide book. But it was beautiful inside, despite our really boring guide.

 

After the Jain temple, we drove for (literally) hours across the hugeness of Mumbai for a glimpse inside Film City. Mr Boring did prove very confident at driving right past the guards on the gate, looking just the right combination of arrogant and familiar to have them not challenge him.

 

Elephanta Island

We boated 10km to Elephanta Island. It was hot. We ate. We saw monkeys, a holy cave, men with boats and a magic cow. Then we floated back to the Gateway of India again.

  

  

  

  

First Photos from Mumbai

This is how we got here: tired out from travelling again.

Mumbai is a very big city, with many very small internet access places.

And we found your taxi, Sati!

Hooray for India - Heather's all excited

We're in India - hooray!!!!

Leaving China was sad because we were leaving our dear friends Hongwei and Yujin, who have been so kind to us. However, I was ready to come to a land with a culture, cuisine and language that I know and love. I hardly slept the night before we came and last night because I was so excited. The kids think its funny because I am so happy and bouncy and want to go out all of the time. It's such a contrast to the last time I was here 20 years ago - not sure what's changed, mostly me I think.

The kids weren't too impressed with our room last night - a bit grubby and run down, but today we have moved to nice hotel and are in a large, clean and comfortable family room - nice to be in together again. Everything is nearby and I am loving Mumbai - great food, shops, sea, people etc etc..... and it makes me feel close to my Indian friends - just wish some of you would come out and take us to the Gujarat - hint hint!!! (Although I have had it pointed out to me, quite rightly, that not all of my Indian friends are Gujaratis!)

I am also itching to get to Kerala and the beach - but at the moment I'm just so happy to be here - I feel so at home. Today we booked our train tickets for a 32 hour down to Kerala, leaving on Sunday, we can also get our Kenyan plane tickets much more cheaply here.

We took a boat trip to an island with temples and monkeys - fun but very hot. Then off to our favorite coffee bar, air conditioning, great latte, cakes etc, very cheap. Yesterday Melissa and I shopped until we dropped and bought loads of cheap clothes to wear - some better than others, tomorrow we are off in a taxi for the day for a sightseeing and shopping trip around Mumbai. Last night we took our Larium, no ill effects for any of us, but I slept very badly (for the 3rd night running), partly over excitement and exhaustion, partly fear of getting nightmares I think, everytime I nodded off and started to dream - I always dream a lot - I woke up with a start fearing that it would be a nightmare. Hopefully I can get a couple of good nights sleep before our mammoth train journey as I seem to be running on adrenaline at the moment.

Hope you are all well and happy too even though you don't have the sun and fine fun of India - lots of love - Heather

- Heather

Safe in Mumbai

Just a quick note to say that we're safely installed at Godwins Hotel in Colaba, Mumbai, 200 yds from our first hotel, and much cleaner and nicer, where we'll stay for a couple of days before heading south to Kerala. Tonight we begin our five months of weekly anti-malarial mefloquine (lariam) tablets (purchased today from a chemist outside Bombay Hospital at a fraction of the UK price) - we'll let you know how wierd our dreams get. It's hot, the food is great, there are a lot of people, some are very poor, many are very friendly - and it's a whole lot more British than China.

Wrong times - Oooooops!

D'oh! The times in the post below this one for when we'll be in our hotel rooms are a load of cobblers, I'm afraid. We'll be there from about 7:30am or so (UK time), definitely till 10am and maybe up to 11am (or possibly up to noon: depends when our hosts have organised dinner for us) - sorry if that means we missed you! You could try between 3 and 4pm, too, when we'll be back from eating.

Call us on Tuesday morning!!

We're off to India on Wednesday morning - if any of our devoted readership wants to say hi tomorrow (Tuesday) between 9am and 1pm British Summer Time, we will be packing in our hotel rooms and can be telephoned like this (if from outside UK, start from step two):

• 08444 390390 (this gets you 3p/minute call rates to China)
• 008610 84214250 (our hotel's automated switchboard)
• then type in ext 8311 (or 8316 for the other room if engaged)

We'd love to hear from you!

Lots of new pictures below

Meanwhile, scroll down for new words and pictures: we managed to get lots more photos uploaded, so we've posted more blog entries with photos in, and they're (mostly!) dated when we wrote them, not when we typed them in. So there are new entries, as of yesterday and today, going back to September 21st.

We still can't edit once we've posted: so please forgive dumb bits of layout, broken links and stuff that's in the wrong order.

Eating the World (Part One)

New food I have tried

• Scorpion - OK
• Crab - OK
• Fried whole little fish - OK
• Aubergine - OK
• Lotus root - horrible
• Lily bulb - horrible
• Pak choi - OK
• Spinach - nice
• Mild green chillis - nice
• Crayfish - OK
• Octopus - OK
• Cockles - nice
• Sea tubes - OK
• Radish - horrible
• Water-chestnuts - horrible
• Prawns - OK
• Shrimp - OK
• "Chicken hair" (green vegetable) - nice
• Bean-sprouts - nice

Food I haven't tried

• Dog - makes me feel sick, but I wish I'd tried it
• Shrimps in wine - because they were alive, wriggling in the pot, until they got eaten, or got so drunk they died.
• Raw lobster (dipped in soya sauce and wasabi) - which I wanted to try at the big posh seafood restaurant in Jinan, but a man nicked it - he got the waitress to clear it and bag it up for him before I tried it! Mark tried it and liked it.
• Beetles on sticks - no thanks. Mark ate silkworms though.

Some favourite food

• Chips in Chilli - thin chips covered with oil in a big pile of chillies and garlic and spices
• Barbequed Fish - in a restaurant in Huairou that we drove miles to after the great wall, by a river
• Aubergines, Green Pepper and Potatoes - tasty!
• Sour "Skittles" - like English skittles sweets, but really sour and covered in sugar - they're the best!
• Chicken on sticks - 5 Yuan (40p) in the tourist market, where they try to give you the wrong change, or 1 Yuan for halal ones round the corner from our hotel in the Muslim restaurant

- Melissa